Entry 2: The Good, The Bad, and The Yummy

Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast Dining

We spent over four weeks on the Dalmatian coast, staying first in Split, then Drvenik on the Makarska Riviera, and finally farther south in Dubrovnik from mid-June to late July 2021 (links to our relevant videos are included).

SPLIT https://youtu.be/xGX8dyp7cUI

We were excited to have a kitchen to cook in now as we planned to be in Split for ten days so eating in was a cost-saver living on the coast, where the cost of living is highest in all of Croatia. The fish and produce markets were at the center of the old town. The markets were very similar to those in the Philippines–the fish still smell of the sea and produce is fresh and locally sourced. The green market also sold various olive oils, eggs, dried meats, cheese, and other delicacies from the neighboring islands of Brač, Hvar, and Korčula.

DRVENIK https://youtu.be/Gkug8iUSJ4Y

In Drvenik, we were hosted by a friend in his family home two blocks from the sea. We prepared most of our meals with supplies from the supermarkets in town. Our meals were simple but shared family-style. It gave us a feeling of living there with a local family.

DUBROVNIK

Part 1: https://youtu.be/l7gJUdK0ky0

Part 2: https://youtu.be/xlnaNeBXZ4s

Dubrovnik is the most expensive town on the coast due to its popularity with tourists. Its population is only about 28,000, whereas Split’s is about 178,000. Cruise ships stop at both but, as we were there during the pandemic, there were fewer tourists this summer than the average. Dubrovnik still felt too crowded inside the Old Town so restaurants were busy.

THE GOOD

Quality: Fresh produce and seafood, amazing quality and freshness of fruits;

the wide availability of Italian food (pizza, pasta, stuffed peppers) for visitors looking for familiar menu items.

Green or produce markets are open almost daily (some close early or all day on Sundays).

Variety:

There are a lot of dining options in different price ranges:

$ pizza, cevapi (grilled ground meat sausage), hamburger and sandwiches; cold cuts. The bacon meat or pancetta (see below)was not salty and is cured so it can be eaten without additional cooking.

$$-$$$ pasta, grilled or fried cuttlefish (calamari),

$$-$$$ mussels in buzara sauce (olive oil, wine, garlic, fresh herbs [usually parsley], and sometimes breadcrumbs),

$$-$$$ risotto, grilled meats including sausage;

$$$$ grilled or fried fish and steaks.

Local options:

Go to local markets and groceries and cook your own meals most days; drink local (wines, beer, rakija, or tap water, which is potable all over the Balkans).

THE BAD

Prices:

Seafood is much more expensive than meat, even along the coast and in seafood markets. Most dining-out options were more expensive than we expected and similar in price to the US (i.e. Denver); expect to pay $15 – $40 for a main plate, which usually EXCLUDES a vegetable side dish. The total cost per meal dining out can easily be $50 – $100 per couple including alcohol, though the quality is generally better than the equivalent meal in Denver.

Variety:

There was not a lot of variety of fish options as the Adriatic seems to be overfished and most shrimps we found were not very fresh. Asian restaurants are also rare (this was very difficult for me), though the Asian restaurants we found were excellent. The vegetable side dish options were limited.

THE YUMMY – DISHES

These were our favorite Dalmatian Coast specialties:

Ston oysters, only in the small town of Mali Ston northwest of Dubrovnik.

Arca noae, the “Noah’s Ark” shellfish

Bajadera, a traditional Croatian chocolate

Peka (or sač) cooking, veal, and lamb, especially the home-cooked version, if you’re lucky enough to have access to it!

Regional and local wines, even from smaller, family-owned wineries.

Ajvar sauce, a relish made from sweet bell peppers and eggplant; a perfect accompaniment to grilled meats.

Burek, traditional flaky bread that can be plain or stuffed with cheese, meat, or spinach.

Shellfish, local, fresh, and so tasty!

Turkish coffee, (Matt’s favorite), strong and rich

Tomatoes and cantaloupe, among the best we have ever tasted.

Young cow cheese, a variety we were introduced to by our host inDubrovnik, made by her mom.

THE YUMMY – RESTAURANTS

These were our favorite Dalmatian Coast restaurants:

ARTiČOK, Split, where we had our 27th-anniversary dinner. 

https://articoksplit.eatbu.hr/?lang=en

With rooftop seating right next to Diocletian’s Palace with a view of the water, ARTiČOK was recommended by our sobe host.

Vicenco Grill Bar, Makarska:

https://www.instagram.com/restaurant_vicenco_makarska/ 

Their lamb was fantastic, grilled fish excellent.

Asia, Dubrovnik:

http://asia-dubrovnik.com.hr/

A hard-to-find Asian restaurant in Babin Kuk in an empty apartment complex, this restaurant served good Chinese food tosatisfy any craving.

Shizuku Japanese, Dubrovnik:

https://www.facebook.com/ShizukuDubrovnik#=

This is located in Lapad close to Sunset Beach. They had excellent sushi and Japanese fried chicken.

Taj Mahal, Dubrovnik: Bosnian-style food, our favorite new cuisine!

https://www.tajmahal-dubrovnik.com/

We had Bosnian food on our day trip to Mostar and loved it, so we had to tryit again!

The spice combinations they use are so fl avorful, and all their meats arecooked perfectly tender. We will defi nitely try more.

It’s all about the sauce! Try anything on their menu and don’t skip dessert. There are two locations in Dubrovnik but we ate at the Old Town location.

Taj Mahal has indoor and outdoor seating. We chose the outdoor, narrow street option.

Bota Šara, Mali Ston

https://www.bota-sare.hr/mali-ston

Fantastic fresh shellfish!

Overall, our dining experience on the Dalmatian coast was enjoyable largely due to our planned access to our own kitchenthroughout our stay. This gave us the ability to avoid crowds, budget our meals, and experiment with local ingredients. Weenjoyed the green markets especially, as well as trying out the local specialties of each region. Special thanks go to ourhomestay hosts and our friend, Ivica, for sharing local delicacies we would not otherwise experience as regular tourists.

Explore food anywhere!

~Avic